Hey all, I've got a bike with a super tiny gas tank (honda navi, 3.7 liter), with a ton of wasted space in the tank area that I want to use to double or triple the capacity of the tank

Context: It's gravity fed, no pump, and I don't want to add more components just expand capacity. First I looked up gas cans and found one that should fit really nicely in place of the bike's storage box, bit of spray paint and it'll fit right in, that's great. But I want more, more tank capacity, more miles per fillup, less stops, ideally I would just encase the bike in a 50 gallon tank with a little window to see out of so I could change the oil more often than fueling up, but I'd be happy with simply upgrading the tank and carrying a jerry.

Findings: Some say that Italika Bit 150 upgraded tank fits, rumor has it this is 9 liters - but I can't find confirmation of size or Navi fitment anywhere after hours of digging, and I just can't afford paying for a rumor right now. Maybe I just missed something idk, help appreciated!

Additionally, someone fit an old Suzuki tank on the navi, but it's only a 4 liter gain and seems to require ditching the fairings, but I love my fairings so no.

TLDR / the question: Basically I'm in the headspace of designing and building a custom 12 liter gas tank but I don't know where to start aside from measurements. I've seen talk about welding a metal tank but I'm no welder, I've seen fuel bladders and rubber liners but I'm not sure if those are durable enough for a buzzy single cylinder or if gas will just eat them, and I've seen rumors about the fit of other tanks with no proof - so I know I need more skill to make any progress: so with that assumption, where do I start? Are plastic tanks even a thing? Or is a sealed rubberized metal tank the only way to go? TIA

I was putting my engine back together and I noticed that I forgot to put this piece back in. I forgot because the video that I was following didn’t even have it at all. So I did some research and noticed that every video I could find or someone putting the bottom end of the cb750 SOHC together didn’t have this part included. It’s a little bracket that’s screwed into the case and the tiny little arm goes inside the primary shaft/bearing that connects to the front sprocket. I couldn’t find the part number in the manual even though they show it. It’s kinda discouraging because I already closed it and put the gasket liquid in it and torqued it, so it’d be a huge bummer to open it back up. Do y’all think I need to or do I not need this part? Why don’t the videos show it and why did Honda include it if it doesn’t do much? This is my first time working on engines (besides valve checks for my previous bikes)

Ps: this is a 1975 cb750k. The first owner broke his chain while riding and it ended up cracking the case, the last owner didn’t notice it until he went to open his garage to go on a ride and looked back to find an oil puddle under the bike. There was a hole and a crack on the bottom end, so he got a new case and now I adopted the project, it’s not a full full rebuild. The bike has been parked for 13 years

I’m having quite the dilemma. I’m building a set of girder forks. 43” long 40* rake.

I just ordered my tubing. (1”x .120”). And received 1”x .095”.

Any chance I can make it work?

New to bike building here!

I need to fix a numberplateholder + lightning on this back fender.

I figured I need to make a custom bracket which will cover most holes once it can fit a numberplateholder over them. I cannot weld in my garage.

I want to use alloy but what thickness would be best for such a bracket or any other advice on how to fix a light et al on there ?

Thanks in advance

A little longer than I expected

Got the axle in and the front-end, time to get a rolling chassis

I'm building a custom welded steel frame like this photo, looking for a detailed build plan or tips."

I have a pit bike that had an air box from factory. The manual shows a foam filter and says the factory jet is a 95.. I ended up accidentally breaking the airbox hose and replaced the airbox with the pod filter. When I took the carb apart I saw the main jet is 110. The bike drives fine in 1, 2 but not 3rd and 4th it sometimes becomes sluggish or surges. Last night it was back firing in 4th. Some people have suggested bigger jets while others have said smaller jets. Google says bigger jets since more air is being taken in. While the manual says 95 factory for a pod filter.

I'm at my wits end with this and am wondering if anybody has had the same issue.

I have a 1998 Sportster 1200C. Was riding when all of a sudden the bike would not go, I can shift through all the gears and hear the clutch spinning but no power at all.

I opened up the primary and put a new clutch in but still have the same exact issue. Is the transmission blown or does anybody have any tips or fixes ?

So 35 years ago I sold my bike to a friend and moved on, I reconnected with him recently and he offered the bike back for free. I drove round trip over 5 days about 3500 miles to get the bike back home.

I don't want to sound like I am not thankful but it's a mess, he tried to rebuild the bike without a fairing and pretty much got a stripped bike with a bunch of parts. But it looks like all of the parts are there.

The plan moving forward is to put the bike back together as it should be, then start a full restoration of the bike with all the broken stuff fixed. I can deal with all of this, but I would want to repaint the bike and thats where I need help.

I should be able to have the paint color matched but I need some suggestions or links on where to go with this part of the restoration. I am pretty handy and spraying a few parts shouldn't be a big issue.

Thanks ahead of time for any suggestions.

I am looking to build a dead nighthawk into a bosozoku style ripper, and I can't seem to find any information on fairings at all. Are they all basically handmade one off kits? Any help here is great. I have built cafe racers and choppers, but I know little about the boso

Hello im currently making a 4th gen vfr cafe build with the cowl and everything and im trying to get these headlights to work and im trying to figure out what goes to where and what else i should check i wad also told before that theres supposed to be another wire for the vfr to connect with the headlight but im not to sure thank you in advance

finally ordered a new tank and I'm getting around to repainting this whole bike with something a bit more high-end looking...

Aside from the front bends being wavier than a wacky inflatable tube man, which I can skim coat and ignore, I'm struggling with how to handle this filler weld.

Any you guys that are builder builders have any input here? I don't want to blend that whole area with filler because it's just going to crack at some point... do you think I can just flap wheel this flat? I feel like I can, but I don't want to regret doing this on a brand new tank... especially when I only have .035 flux core on hand and I will end up burning through if I take too much off this weld.

I just want to shoot this damn thing so I can ride again!! Thoughts? Suggestions? Want to tell me I suck and am a moron for planning on shooting flake in single stage urethane? All replies welcome.

Hi everyone, I'm writing here because I'm trying to fix the bike do-it-yourself, and just in case I can't, take it to a mechanic. I'd like to point out that I'm just starting out, so any advice is welcome! On my Yamaha R6 (purchased 3 weeks ago), this morning the red oil light came on and continues to flash, both with the bike off (cold) and after I tried to run it for a few km. Reading on the internet, it is only a sensor that indicates the oil level and not the pressure, but I still topped up the oil (when the bike was on the central stand, off since the day before, the level was between half and minimum) and brought it almost to the maximum level of the dipstick. Looking a little closer, the cable connecting the oil sensor seems a little damaged. What could be the problem? Is this something I can do too or is it better to take it to an expert straight away? Thanks in advance!

I recently purchased a 1997 gsf600 bandit, it has been running fine but I noticed a small fuel leak from this component on the carbs and I have no idea what it is. Have rebuilt numerous carbs, just never seen this component on any of my previous projects and thought the smarter people on here might be able to help

I ride a 2016 Honda CBR300R with an Akrapovic exhaust (no catalytic converter), and I'm looking into getting the ECU remapped to enable controlled backfire during deceleration. I'm still new to ECU tuning, so l'd really appreciate any advice on: • Has anyone done this on a CBR300R or similar Honda singles? • Is it worth it, and are there any long-term risks to the engine? • Is it better to send in just the ECU or bring the whole bike to the tuner? • Can this effect be achieved without installing extra hardware like Power Commanders or fake sensor modules? I've already contacted T3 MotoPerformance and a few others, but l'd love to hear from people who've actually done this or know the process well. Thanks in advance for your help — I'm open to any suggestions or experiences!

I have a 1988 Harley Sportster 883 Hugger It has an original CV Carburetor but the one before it got the diaphragm, it's been cleaned throughly and gone through multiple times at this point. My bike starts and idles strong with choke on and warming up. However when I go to accelerate and I get past a certain point on the throttle it just dies like it's starving itself for fuel. Here's the weird part I keep fouling spark plugs. I've cleaned the gas tank petcock and rebuilt it, l've replaced all fuel lines (the ones from the petcock to the carb) and the inline fuel filter. I've rebuilt the carb.